What to do in Battambang ?

December 12, 2009

River trip

Just to the north of the new bridge a cluster of boats is moored. This is where the ferries to Siem Reap depart, but you can also hire one of the smaller wooden boats just to explore the river. Rates are around $4-5 per hour depending on your bargaining ability. The river in both directions weaves through stunning rural scenery. Admittedly if you come from Siem Reap by boat you will have seen much of it already, but seeing it from the comfort of a small wooden boat rather than an overloaded death trap is far more enjoyable.

Wats within town

Several wats lie on the far bank of the river, but to the casual visitor they are probably just of passing interest. The most interesting is Wat Kandal, just to the north of the iron bridge. It has an unusual arched entranceway and out the back in the far corner nestles a model of Angkor Wat. If you have already seen the real thing, it is hardly worth the effort.

Battambang Museum

On again off again, this museum has never been open when we've been in town. The ticket seller/custodian apparently doubles as a fruit seller down the road, so if you stand around long enough she'll wander over and open up for you. We've been told it contains a small collection of Angkorian items and a Tonle Sap display. Admission is $1 when open.

Outside town

The countryside surrounding Battambang is simply stunning, especially when the rice fields are sprouting. It's easy to spend two to three days exploring, while someone determined to see everything the area has to offer could spend a week here. Despite its proximity to Thailand and the good road to Phnom Penh, relatively few tourists make it here, which is a shame for them, but no doubt good for those who make the effort. Best seen by motorbike, hunt down a motodop who speaks reasonable English (not too difficult) and get a copy of Ray Zepp's Around Battambang. Although we cover some of the attractions Ray does, if you're spending a chunk of time here the book is certainly worth getting, and in purchasing it you're supporting a very worthy cause. Motodops will be able to give you good advice on what to see and in what order to see things. It's best to avoid travelling in the middle of the day as the heat is oppressive. Instead, leave early in the morning, see a couple of sights, return to Battambang for a few hours' siesta, then head out again around 3pm. In the late afternoon light, the rural scenery is simply breathtaking.

Ek Phnom


Ek Phnom dates back to the 11th century and is one of the most-visited attractions around Battambang. If you've already seen Angkor Wat you'll probably find it to be a bit of a disappointment, but if you haven't been there yet, it's a fine taster. On weekdays, you're likely to have the entire place to yourself, while on weekends, it is a popular excursion for those from Battambang. The ruins have been heavily looted and look to have partially been collapsed on purpose to get at some sections of it. Out the front of the ruins is a new temple known for its murals. Ek Phnom is best reached from Battambang by motodop along the river road and takes around 45 minutes, passing through some beautiful scenery.

Rice paper making

En route to Ek Phnom you'll pass a group of houses dedicated to making the rice paper used in wrapping spring rolls, with the workers quite happy for you to stop and take a look. What's interesting is the steam-driven mechanics of the process, which is created by the heat from rice chaff. It's mesmerising to watch them being made then laid out to dry. The houses are in the midst of some of the best of the river road trip. Keep an eye out for the abandoned French villas, lush forest and emerald paddies.

Phnom Banan

Just over 20km to the south of Battambang, Phnom Banan is the best kept of the remaining Khmer ruins in the area, though again, when compared to Angkor Wat it isn't so impressive. Dating back to the 11th century, Phnom Banan has also been heavily looted but it remains mostly upright. What is impressive from here are the superb views of the surrounds in all directions. A large field gun kept at the site once has now been removed. It's a rather steep climb from ground level up to the ruins. Luckily at the top a few industrious drink sellers emerge, who will also be happy to show you around the temple and then the caves below on the left (when looking at the ruins from the stairs). These are well worth exploring, though note the cave entrance is almost at the base of the hill, so be sure you are finished with the ruins before you agree to go down. Also note if it is a slow day -- very common here -- all the children here will offer to come with you, but they will all expect something for coming along. Be warned that the entrance to the caves is so small you need to wriggle through on your belly.

Phnom Sampeau

This hilltop temple on the road to Snong and Pailin is one of the main locations of Battambang's "Killing Fields", with a large cave where victims were thrown into the caves either to their death or after being bludgeoned or had their throats cut. Children hang around the base of the temple and will walk up with you and act as your guides, some of them speak very good English. They will expect some money in return for showing you around. According to our guides, there was one cave for women, one for men and one for children, though other sources differ in this regard. There are two ways to the summit, one by stairs, the other by a sweeping trail with a far easier incline that runs around the hillock to the summit. Phnom Sampeau is best visited in early morning or late afternoon when the light and the spectacular views are at their best. We've encountered some problems with motodops who have expressed an unwillingness to drive out to Phnom Sampeau, claiming that it is a bad place that tourists shouldn't see. If you want to visit here, don't feel uncomfortable about insisting you visit. The road out is partially sealed. Ask your motodop to take the main road out, but come back via one of the many back dirt-routes that meander through the paddies. In the late afternoon light, it is beautiful.

Nori Ride

Nories, also know as bamboo trains, are one of the "must sees" of Battambang, if only for their novelty value. Formed by two sets of railway wheels, a bamboo mat and a generator, these are an impromptu way of travelling up and down the railway line in lieu of a real train. (When the real train shows up, all the nories disappear). Aside from a rather peculiar way of getting around, they are also a great way of seeing rural Cambodia well off the road network. When two nories meet coming in opposite directions, the one with the lighter load is dismantled and removed from the tracks, allowing the other to pass. Powered by a small motor, the speed seems quite reasonable and while interesting for an hour or so, anything longer will give you a very sore backside. They can carry motorbikes, so a nori ride is easily combined with a motodop trip to say Phnom Banan. Just let your motodop know before you leave Battambang that you want to do one of these trips and he'll suggest the best point in your journey to do it. A nori trip will cost extra -- be sure to agree on the price before you get on.

Snong

Just over 20km from Battambang on the road to Pailin, Snong has a group of small Angkorian sites just on the left side of the road in the centre of the village. Best visited en route to Pailin, these are not worth heading out to see unless you are continuing to Pailin anyway or want to see every single Angkorian site in Cambodia.